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	<title>Mikrokontroleri &#8211; Lemilica</title>
	<atom:link href="http://lemilica.com/archives/category/elektronika/mikrokontroleri/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://lemilica.com</link>
	<description>How-To Community</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 12 Feb 2021 12:16:55 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Cheap EOS3 BGA64 design</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/3117</link>
					<comments>http://lemilica.com/archives/3117#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Feb 2021 12:16:54 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Elektronika]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mikrokontroleri]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/?p=3117</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I bought EOS3 BGA on CrowdSupply and as I started to work on my board. After some time I have discovered that it would be hard to make it at low price.If I would do it correctly I would need to use small vias, probably buried vias so for few boards that did not make sense to me…But as I still wanted board I had some idea to do it hacky way. If I do not use VIA under BGA then all will be good and cheap. I tough that one of two approaches should work.First idea was to use just the pins I need &#8211; and not to place pads for the pins I do not need. But then I looked at the datasheet and as I discovered some pins in datasheet would not mind if they are connected on startup I used other approach.Connected some pins together so if that would work I could use more pins at the end… I ordered board from OshPark &#8211;https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/bjR6vplZI assembled board And start to study tool chain. Finally understood how to &#8220;compile&#8221; everything, but I run on the issue. Problem is that I can load fw to board, but LED does not blink and if I connect to debug board I see https://github.com/QuickLogic-Corp/qorc-sdk/issues/86 Problem is that now I an stuck as I tried many things in software, and I am not sure that HW is done right. https://github.com/intergalaktik/QuickL &#8230; QuickBGA64]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>Turning cheap GSM development board into opensource BLE mobile phone</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/2709</link>
					<comments>http://lemilica.com/archives/2709#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Nov 2016 22:28:42 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/turning-cheap-gsm-development-board-into-opensource-ble-mobile-phone</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I saw that Ai Thinker that developed ESP8266 has some new modules, and after a bit of search found cheap  GSM development board http://www.ebay.com/itm/152255901336?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&#38;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I have found all documentations and source code for 8051 chip. I have tested original code and it is not working as it should, you cannot enter number, you cannot delete no. when you enter it wrong, it stops responding after few seconds and then just type some numbers, so I decided to upgrade it with some arduino compatible chip. I had two candidates for this module, first was STM32, and second was nRF51 chip. But then if I chose STM32 I will not have bluetooth :( so nRF it goes &#8230; I wanted board with nRF with as many pins possible and I have chose this module http://www.ebay.com/itm/291888617902?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&#38;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT After that I needed to remove original MCU and connect wires to nRF board. At first I have used some bad USB soldering iron so I broke one pin, but quickly after that I was in my lab with normal soldering iron. And this is ultra-fast prototyping so there is no time for fancy soldering :) It is all one week after job work &#8230; For now pictures are here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154646682557158.1073741849.820257157&#38;type=1&#38;l=528476f82c and some video progress &#160; Today I have manage to get serial to work at 115200 I manage to get serial receive on one pin, so now I can start phone by waiting ready message for modem&#8230; I also solder mic and speaker and  manage to talk if I call from BLEntaPhone On call BLEntaPhone is now beeps and blinks blue LED ;) Small presentation &#8230; BLEntaPHONE(1)]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>Use cheap STM32 development board with arduino</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/2691</link>
					<comments>http://lemilica.com/archives/2691#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Oct 2016 21:43:08 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Elektronika]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/use-cheap-stm32-development-board-with-arduino</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[http://www.ebay.com/itm/291693366485?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&#38;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT &#160; Set jumpers like on picture!!! Connect to any USB-Serial Board USB-ser            STM32 RX                    &#8212;    A9 TX                    &#8212;    A10 GND                 &#8212;    GND 3.3V                 &#8212;    3.3V Check serial port Download FLASHER-STM32 Demonstrator GUI http://www.st.com/en/development-tools/flasher-stm32.html Install, run, select your serial port Click on Remove protection OK Next Check on right if all is green (unprotected) Download firmware from git https://github.com/rogerclarkmelbourne/STM32duino-bootloader/blob/master/STM32F1/binaries/generic_boot20_pc13.bin Select file and hit next We are done ;) Download https://github.com/rogerclarkmelbourne/Arduino_STM32 put it into hardware folder of your arduino Set the jumper back and connect STM32 to usb port Install driver (it is in downloaded folder) Start arduino in boards manager you will need to install arduino zero !!! after that select Blink LED sample change LED pin to PC13 and hit upload You can now blink a led on pin PC13 Check new serial port, you can now use it as in arduino ;)]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>Kaotični windows modul WTV020-SD-16P</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/2450</link>
					<comments>http://lemilica.com/archives/2450#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Mar 2016 17:06:39 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Elektronika]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/kaoticni-windows-modul-wtv020-sd-16p</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Kupio modul na ebay-u, jako lijepo izgleda i jeftin je pa reko da probam U-disk audio player TF SD card voice module MP3 Sound WTV020-SD-16P Arduino Nakon 2 dana borbe napokon je popustio. Ključno je bilo formatiranje na windowsima (bljak)&#8230; Ovdje sve lijepo piše pa da ne prepisujem http://www.buildcircuit.com/example-1-using-wtv020sd-16p-music-module-with-arduino/ A u komentarima piše i riješenje za format kartice &#8220;Hi, I want to share with you my experience that may save you hours of aggravation using this module. You have to format the SD card using an SD formatting software. Don’t use Windows nor Mac to format the card – it won’t work! I used SDFormatter. configure it to a FULL ERASE. Good luck!&#8221; i još jedna bitna stvar DO NOT USE 5V POWER SUPPLY FOR THE MODULE. 5V will burn both your MicroSD card and WTV020SD module. Please use only 3.3V power, either from Arduino or use 3.3V regulator chip. Nakon toga samplove sa stranice samo sam ubacio sa linux-a na sd karticu i sve radi ok &#8230; Manual za modul https://www.heinpragt.com/techniek/robotica/images/WTV020_manual_V1.3.pdf Kontrola preko arduina, dovoljno je samo napajanje modula spojiti na 3.3V od arduina, arduino može biti 5V, testirano i radi&#8230; http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=117009.0]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>Kontrola UT390B laserskog mjerača udaljenost preko arduina</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/2417</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jan 2016 23:06:47 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[C]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/kontrola-ut390b-laserskog-mjeraca-udaljenost-preko-arduina</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I prvi kod]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>Hackathon Suptilne tehnologije: bio-elektroničke dimenzije, br. 2, Deringaj</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/2349</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[body_pixel]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Aug 2014 18:29:37 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Elektronika]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fauna]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Flora]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Flora i fauna]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Najave]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[biohakiranje]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[deringaj]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hackathon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[radiona.org]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[suptilne tehnologije]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/hackathon-suptilne-tehnologije-bio-elektronicke-dimenzije-br-2-deringaj</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hackathon Suptilne tehnologije: bio-elektroničke dimenzije, br. 2, Deringaj – općina Gračac 19. – 24. kolovoza, 2014. AIR Radionica DIY zmajevi + elektronika – Suzan Ćosić (Hrvatska) Worshop DIY kites + electronics &#8211; Suzan Ćosić (Croatia) Vrijeme: Četvrtak, 21. kolovoza, 14 – 18h Time: Thursday, 21 August, 14 – 18h BODY Brdska fiskultura &#8211; svako jutro drugi polaznik / polaznica Hackathona / RAD-a shera svoje vježbe zagrijavanja i razgibavanja (Yoga, Qigong, gimnastika, istezanje, borilačke vještine, Pilates, Feldenkrais…) Berg Fusskultur &#8211; every morning any Hackathon / RAD participant shares her or his warming up exercises (Gymnastics, Yoga, Qigong, Stretching, Martial Arts, Pilates, Feldenkrais…) 8-9h, svaki dan 8-9, every day BIO Radionica Bakteria Lab  &#8211; Kristijan Tkalec (Slovenija) Workshop Bakteria Lab &#8211; Kristijan Tkalec (Slovenia) Termin: 20. kolovoza, 11 – 13h Time: 20 August, 11 – 13h Radionica off grid laboratories – Brian Degger (Velika Britanija) Workshop off grid laboratories – Brian Degger (UK) Termin: 19. kolovoza, 19-21h Time: 19 August, 7-9pm Radionica DIY bio-baterije  &#8211; Marina Petrović (Hrvatska) Workshop DIY bio-baterries &#8211; Marina Petrović (Croatia) Termin: 20. kolovoza, 11-13h Time: 20 August, 11-13am Radionica BeautyHack: izrada prirodne kozmetike – paste za zube, peeling za tijelo, dezodorans, krema za tijelo i lip balm &#8211; Marina Petrović (Hrvatska) Workshop BeautyHack: DIY production of natural cosmetics &#8211; toothpaste, body scrub, deodorant, body cream and lip balm &#8211; Marina Petrović (Croatia) Termin: 19. kolovoza, 14 – 16h Time: 19 August, 14 – 16h Radionica DIY mikroskopija – kolektivni workshop Workshop DIY Microscopy – collective workshop Vrijeme: Subota, 23. kolovoza, 11 – 15h Time: Saturday, 23 August, 11 – 15h ELECTRO Radionica Raspberry Pi – Goran Mahovlić (Hrvatska) Workshop Raspberry Pi &#8211; Goran Mahovlić (Croatia) Termin: Subota, 23. kolovoza, 15- 18h Time: Saturday, 23 August. 15 &#8211;  18h Radionica Hakiranje igračaka + Arduino – kolektivni workshop Workshop Hacking Toys + Arduino –  collective workshop Termin: Nedjelja, 24. kolovoza, 11 – 14h Time: Saturday, 24 August, 11 – 14h Radionica Textil{e}tronics &#8211; Deborah Hustić (Hrvatska) Workshop Textil{e}tronics – Deborah Hustic (Croatia) Vrijeme: Četvrtak, 21. kolovoza, 11 – 14h Time: Thursday, 21 August, 11 – 14h MIND Nameless Symposium &#8211; peripatetički simpozij koji se kao neočekivana sila odjednom pojavljuje i isto tako nestaje, te nastavlja u nekoj drugoj formi ili konstelaciji, između radionica, druženja, pauza i razgovora. Sve s ciljem što veće spontanosti i želje za hakiranjem i samog medija simpozija, koji ne mora uvijek biti u formi predavača i publike. Nameless Symposium – peripatetic symposium as unexpected force which suddenly appears and disappears, and continues in another form or constellation between workshops, meetings, breaks and conversation. Un-designed with the goal of greater spontaneity and desire for hacking the medium itself – symposium, which may not always be in the similar old school form of speakers and audience. Sudjeluju / Partaking: Kristijan Tkalec, Brian Degger, Goran Mahovlić, Kruno Jošt, Maja Kohek, Tin Dožić, Danijela Zoroja, Deborah Hustić, Marina Petrović, Suzan Ćopić… + Open branstorming lab za buduće projekte Čakule o ‘Praksama održivog menadžmenta za makere i hakere’ SKY Radionica Noć pod zvijezdama – Deringaj – Ivan Lovrek, Uroš Todorović Mikšaj (Zvjezdarnica Zagreb // Astronomsko astronautičko društvo Zagreb) Workshop A Night Under The Stars &#8211; Deringaj &#8211; Ivan Lovrek, Uroš Todorović Mikšaj (Zagreb Observatory // Astronomical Astronautical Society Zagreb – AAD) Vrijeme: 19., 20. i 21. kolovoza, od 22 h nadalje Time: 19, 20 and 21 August, from 22 till the night Radionica DIY garažna astronomija &#8211; teleskop – kolektivna radionica Workshop DIY garage astronomy – telescopy &#8211; collective workshop Termin: Subota, 23. kolovoza, 11 – 13h Time: Saturday, 23 August, 11 – 13h SOLAR Radionica Solarni kukci – kolektivni workshop Workshop Solar Bugs – collective workshop Termin: Petak, 22. kolovoza, 11 – 14h Time: Friday, 22 August, 11 – 14h Radionica Sunbeam Seeker Bot &#8211; kolektivni workshop Workshop Sunbeam Seeker Bot  &#8211; collective workshop Termin: Petak, 22. kolovoza, 11 – 14h Time: Friday, 22 August, 11 – 14h Radionica Hack.me.Solar! ToyLand! &#8211; Deborah Hustić (Hrvatska) Workshop Hack.me.Solar! ToyLand! &#8211; Deborah Hustic (Croatia) Termin: Petak, 22. kolovoza, 11 – 14h Time: Friday, 22 August, 11 – 14h Projekt DIY solarni punjač &#8211; Kristijan Tkalec (Slovenija) Project DIY Solar Charger – Kristijan Tkalec (Slovenia) Termin: Tokom hackathona Time: During hackathon Projekt DIY Solar Synth &#8211; Deborah Hustić (Hrvatska) Project DIY Solar Synth &#8211; Deborah Hustic (Croatia) Termin: Tokom hackathona Time: During hackathon SOUND Radionica cIRCuIT bENDing – kolektivni workshop Workshop cIRCuIT bENDing – collective workshop Termin: Četvrtak, 21. kolovoza, 14 – 18h Time: Thursday, 21 August, 14 – 18h WATER Radionica DIY brodić + Arduino + senzori &#8211; Goran Mahovlić (Hrvatska) Workshop DIY Boat + Arduino + sensors – Goran Mahovlić (Croatia) Termin: Nedjelja, 23. kolovoza, 14h – 17h Time: Sunday, 23 August, 14 – 17h Water Biohacking – Brian Degger (Velika Britanija) Water Biohacking – Brian Degger (Velika Britanija) Terenski rad: 20. kolovoza, nakon 16 sati – točni termini tijekom Hackathona Field trips: 20 August, after 4pm &#8211;  to be announced during the Hackathon {{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}{{{{{{{{{{{{{{}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}} Koncept programa i organizacija: Deborah Hustić Programski suradnici: Goran Mahovlić, Marina Petrović Izvršna organizacija: Tomislava Borić Dizajn: Ana Labudović Organizator: Radiona.org (Zagreb) Su-organizatori: UKE (Varaždin) / Istok (Osijek) Realizirano kroz mrežu Clubture u sklopu programa “Clubture-HR 2014.” Financijski podržali Zaklada Kultura Nova, Ministarstvo kulture RH, Grad Zagreb]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>8&#215;8 LED</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/1982</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jul 2013 16:13:24 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/8x8-led</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
		
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		<item>
		<title>HowTo USBISP to USBASP</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/1683</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 16:51:53 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[AVR]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/howto-usbisp-to-usbasp</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Essential steps are translated to english. Ivica je pronašao neke lijepe USB programatore, pa smo se dogovorili da naručimo par komada i pokušamo ih prepraviti na USBASP programatore pošto smo našli da je to moguće&#8230; Za sada sam jedan prepravio, još jedan istestirao jer sa njime programiram, treći je već na početku pokazao da ne želi surađivati pa je došao na operacijski stol, sa njime ću se morati malo više pozabavii pošto sam ustanovio da nije problem da su loše zalemili čip nego je problem negdje u Through-hole-ima. Morati ću nažalost svaku rupicu spajati odozgo prema dolje jer, pa vidjeti da li je u tome problem. U jednom trenutku kada sam ga savinuo je proradio i uspio sam ga programirati pa sam zato zaključio da bi u tome mogao biti problem. &#8220;Update&#8221; &#8211; Nije problem niti u Through-hole-ovima, sve sam ih pospajao sa žićicom i USB i dalje ne želi razgovarati sa mnom. Izmjerio sam dvije zenerice i one su ok. Fuse je ok. Na USB kada ga spojim javlja Unknown device. Moguće da je Mega8L krepao pa ću naručiti jedan sa ebay-a čisto da vidim da li je do njega. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSCF2243.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSCF2245.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Ako ste rastavili i vaš USBISP izgleda kao ovaj dolje na slici onda je to očito naka lošija verzija, ostalih 4 koje sam rastavio izgledaju drugačije i radili su iz prve. Odmah sam prodavaču na ebay-u skrenuo pažnju na to da mi je uvalio 1 komad koji nije isti kao druga 4, da taj jedan nije uopće davao znakove života, pa sam ga pokušao popraviti ali ništa ne pomaže. Javio se instantno i pitao da li mi može poslati samo taj jedan. Pitao sam ga može li poslati 6 ako naručim još 5, tako da ni on nema prevelike troškove. Složio se je pa stiže još 6 komada :) &#8220;Update&#8221; Stigli su i novi. Ovaj puta su ih čini se istestirali, svih 6 komada kojih sam dobio su ispravni i rade normalno. Sada ih samo treba prepraviti na USB-ASP. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSCF2246.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Tko je &#8220;zločest&#8221; ide na lemilicu! [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSCF2247.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Da bi preprogramirali USBISP moramo zalemiti most između dvije točke, točno tamo gdje piše UP. If we want to reprogram USBISP first we need to solder one wire. Brick two holes above sign UP. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSCF2248.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Spojiti ga na jedan USBISP Connect it to other USBISP [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/DSCF2249.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Da bi ih prepravili prvo će vam trebati program za USBISP ili ako već imate neki svoj programator možete ih progrmirati sa njim. obratite pozornost na fuse settings, oni su jako bitni, a lako ih je zaboraviti promijeniti. Ali prije toga da se ne mučite previše kućište se skida ovako Removing hosing is easy Download this program Prvo skinite http://yadi.sk/d/PL86kHFY5H1KW After downloading extract rar in some folder. Then go to folder named ProgISP1.72 Nakon što smo skinuli rar, moramo ga raspakirati u neki folder i nakon toga pronaći Folder ProgISP1.72 [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP1.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Run progisp.exe I pokrenuti progisp.exe [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP2.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP3.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Pod config Stisnete na hardware Under config click on hardware [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP4.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Program će vam vratiti neki broj ispod. Program will return some no. under hardware. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP5.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Sada kliknite na CHECKIO Click on CHECKIO [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP6.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Odspojite uređaj koji želite programirati(budući ASP) Kliknite na AUTO, program će onda provjeriti da li USBISP RADI. Ako se svi pinovi popune plavim znaći da je sve u redu. Disconnect bricked USBISP, click on AUTO to check if USBISP is working [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP7.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Spojite buduću USBASP. Kliknite na Erase, dolje niže program će ispisati Chip erase succesfuly. Connect bricked USBISP Click on Erase, program will return Chip erase succesfuly [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP11.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Sljedeće kliknemo na obe kućice(vjerojatno treba samo na desnu ali za svaki slučaj) u kojima piše 0xD9E1 to ćemo promjeniti LFUSE i HFUSE u 0xC9EF kao što je prikazano na slikama dolje. Prva slika pokazuje kako je bilo,a druga kako treba postaviti FUSE. Next we need to change FUSE settings, click on both boxes with value 0xD9E1 and change it to 0xC9EF So set is as on picture 2. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP8.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP9.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Sada učitamo hex koji želimo programirati. Load Hex file. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP12.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Uđemo u folder Go to folder [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP13.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] pa u default in defult [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP14.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] i odaberemo hex select and open hex file [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP15.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Program će nam napisati da je učitao file. Program will return that the program is loaded [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP16.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Idemo na Command &#8212; Program Fuse Program fuse with Command &#8212; Program Fuse [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP17.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Program će javiti da je uspješno postavio FUSE Program will return that FUSE-s are set [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP18.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Sljedeće je Command &#8211; Write Flash Write Flash [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP19.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] I zadnje Command &#8211; Verify Flash Verify [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USBISP_USBASP20.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Nakon toga iključiti USBISP i iz njega isključite USBASP. Skinite jumper sa USBASP-a inače vam neće raditi. Nakon što ste skinuli jumper, kada priključite USBASP u usb port primjetiti ćete da sada više ne svijetli crvena dioda, nego da je upaljena plava dioda. Ako pogledate u device manager, USB ASP bi vam se trebao prikazati ovako. Now you can disconnect yout USBASP, do not forget to remove jummper. If you now connect it to your USB port, you will notice that now the BLUE LED IS ON. In device manager now you will have USBASP device [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/USB_ASP.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] I na kraju test And at the end we need to test if USBASP is working. [image url=&#8221;wp-content/uploads/2013/05/usbASP_working.jpg&#8221; width=&#8221;640&#8243; hight=&#8221;480&#8243; align=&#8221;aligncenter&#8221; stretching=&#8221;fill&#8221;] Sve šljaka&#8230; Znači da će raditi i sa Arduino IDE, samo u njemu odaberete USBASP. All ok :)]]></description>
		
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			</item>
		<item>
		<title>Atmel AVR &#8211; početak</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/1318</link>
					<comments>http://lemilica.com/archives/1318#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ivica Zdelarec]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 14:21:39 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[AVR]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mikrokontroleri]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Osnove]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Atmel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Atmel osnove]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[AVR osnove]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[osnove]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/atmel-avr-pocetak</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[U ovom članku objasnit ćemo osnovne pojmove vezane uz hardware Atmelovih AVR mikrokontorolera i izraditi jednostavan developement setup koji se može do mile volje nadograđivati koliko god to specifikacije samog mikrokontrolera dozvoljavaju. Najpraktičnijima za razvoj pokazali su se AVR-ovi iz ATmega 48/88/168/328 serije. Ovi mikrokontroleri nude širok spektar opcija, tako da se mogu koristit skoro za svaku namjenu. Raspon napona napajanja i mala potrošnja te više stand-by modova omogućavaju korištenje samo jedne Li-ion ili Li-Po baterije za napajanje. Odlikuje ih i velik broj digitalnih, kao i ‘analognih’ ulaza i izlaza. Po tri različita timera sa raznim opcijama i mogućnost povezivanja USART, SPI i I2C serijskim protokolima. Brojke prije zadnje 8-ice u oznaci serije označavaju količinu programske memorija u kilobajtima dakle, ATmega 168 raspolaže sa 16 kilobajta memorije, a 328 sa 32kb. Iako su svi mikrokontroleri iz ove serije kompatibilni i po registrima i po rasporedu nožica, za razvojnu platformu preporučam baš 168 ili 328, pogotovo ako namjeravate ubaciti neki grafički LCD. Još treba uzeti u obzir da najmlađa sestrica 328 raspolaže i sa dvostruko više EEPROM-a(1kb) i RAM-a(2kb) od 168-ice. Ovi mikrokontroleri se nude u različitim kućištima, od kojih za početak preporučam DIP kućište koje se može direktnu upiknuti u breadboard. TQFP kućište osim svoje male veličine nudi i dva dodatna ADC(‘analogna’) ulaza, što je nekad dovoljno da čovjeka natjera na prelazak na SMD. Neki možda još uvijek prezaju od SMD tehnologije, ali više o tome u nastavku ‘kako sam se prestao brinuti i zavolio SMD’. Nakon što se opskrbite sa nekoliko 328-ica(ne, jedna nije dovoljna), za sam početak dovoljno je nabaviti još samo par sitnica od kojih su glavne breadboard i USB programator. Od breadboardova preporučam izvedbu sa 830 rupa, a od programatora USBasp. Osobno sam se sa AVR-om počeo baviti jer nije bilo potrebno kupovati skupi programator, već je blio dovoljno spojit ga na paralelni port računala sa par žica i otpornika. Iako takav pristup i danas funkcionira, toplo preporučam da pogledate USBasp  Radi se o open source programatoru, tako da ako imate volje, možete skinuti PCB layout, izraditi pločicu i kod prijatelja koji već ima programator ubaciti .hex u USBasp-ov ATmega88. Čisto sumnjam da će se to ikome isplatiti s obzirom da se gotovi programatori prodaju za oko 3 dolara na ebay-u. Zato, naručite odmah dva, jer si ne možete priuštiti čekanje od dva-tri tjedna ako izgubite jedan. Za korištenje ovog programatora u windowsima potrebno je updaetati drivere sa USBasp stranice[http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/]. Dakle u ‘Device manageru’ pronađete USBasp uređaj i kliknete naUpdate driver. Ako i nakon ovog postupka &#8216;Device manager&#8217; prijavljuje problem, potrebno je Windowse &#8216;uvjeriti&#8217; da mogu vjerovati ovim driverima korištenjem jednostavnog programa[http://www.ngohq.com/?page=dseo]. Nakon što pokrenete program, potrebno je odabrati opciju &#8216;Sign a system file&#8217; te kopirati lokaciju drivera (npr: &#8220;C:\&#8230;\usbasp-windriver.2011-05-28\libusb0.sys&#8221;). Nakon toga ne zaboravite kliknuti &#8216;Enable test mode&#8217; u programčiću i resetirati računalo. Mali heads-up, izgleda da u nekim verzijama Windowsa nakon ovog postupka USBasp radi samo na onom USB portu u koji je bio uštekan tijekom postupka !!! Zato, nabaviti male-to-female USB kabl, i to poduži :). [toggle title=&#8221;Postupak za Win8(courtesy of Mr. Dokladal)&#8220;] Da bi zaobišli verifikaciju potpisa drivera na Win8 potrebno je napraviti sljedeće korake: 1) Potrebno je ući u Settings menu koji se nalazi s desne strane ekrana 2) &#8220;Change PC Settigns&#8221; 3) Zatim &#8220;General&#8221; koji se nalazi s desne strane ekrana, te na dnu u &#8220;Advanced startup&#8221; odabrati &#8220;Restart Now&#8221; 4) &#8220;Troubleshoot&#8221; 5) &#8220;Advanced options&#8221; 6) &#8220;Startup Settings&#8221; 7) &#8220;Restart&#8221; 8) &#8220;Disable Driver Signature Enforcement&#8221; odnosno F7 &#160; Zatim napraviti update drivera. Ovaj proces potrebno je ponoviti svaki put kod korištenja USBasp programera. [/toggle] &#160; [notification type=&#8221;warning&#8221;]Mali heads-up, izgleda da u nekim verzijama Windowsa nakon ovog postupka USBasp radi samo na onom USB portu u koji je bio uštekan tijekom postupka !!! Zato, nabaviti male-to-female USB kabl, i to poduži :).[/notification] Nakon instalacije drivera, USBasp je potrebno spojiti sa megicom. Na sljedećoj slici prikazan je raspored pinova 10-pinskog konektora, i pozicije odgovarajućih nožica na Atmegi 328. &#160; Za uštekavanje programatora u bread, potrebno je izraditi jednostavan adapter. Za izradu ovakvog adaptera praktično je koristiti perforirane pločice za prototipe sa linijama. Takvu pločicu je potrebno izrezati tako da u nju stane jedan 2×5 header konektor, i dva komadiča SIL konektora sa pet pinova. Zatim je potrebno prekinuti vezu linija između dva reda 2×5 konektora. To je najlakšte napraviti uz pomoć malene turpijice. Ako koristite SIL letvu standardne dužine, potrebno je pinove utisnuti tako da budu u ravnini sa plastikom na jednoj strani. Time ćete osigurati dobar spoj sa breadboardom, a uostalom i urednije izgleda. Toplo preporućam da koristite konektor 2×5 sa kućištem umjesto golog pin headera. Uštedit ćete si dosta vremena kada nakon par mjeseci neaktivnosti izuvčete bread iz prašine. Na sljedećoj slici prikazan je primjer ožićenja Atmege sa konektorom programatora. Dodana je i ledica koja će nam poslužiti samo za demonstraciju nakon upisivanja testnog programa koji će je natjerati da problinka. Za ‘točenje’ programa u Atmel preporučam zgodan programčić Khazama [http://khazama.com/project/programmer/]. Za probu možemo utočiti program za blinkanje ledice[https://github.com/ArchStanton/AtmelAVR-pocetnica]. U padajućem izborniku AVR: , ili pod File-&#62; AVR-&#62;Mega odaberemo mikrokontroler koji koristimo. Zatim kliknemo File-&#62; Load FLASH file to Buffer, odgovarajuće dugme na  alatnoj traci ili Ctrl+L na tipkovnici, i odaberemo ”Blinky.hex” file. Nakon toga trebamo još kliknuti na Command-&#62; Write FLASH Buffer to Chip ili Ctrl+F da bismo utočili program na Megu. I eto ga. Sada imamo sve što je potrebno za programiranje AVR-a, i u sljedećem nastavku poćinjemo sa konkretnim programiranjem. Za programiranje ćemo koristiti C compiler, tako da se ne trebamo navlačiti sa asemblerskim kôdom, i teorijom mikroračunala. Sljedeći put ćemo objasniti manipuliranje bitovima, i princip rada sa registrima, pa bi bilo zgodno da se opskrbite sa barem 8 LED-ica, i odgovarajućim otpornicima.]]></description>
		
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			</item>
		<item>
		<title>Arduino Processing dio drugi</title>
		<link>http://lemilica.com/archives/934</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Goran Mahovlić]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Apr 2013 08:42:52 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Arduino UNO]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Processing]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://lemilica.com/arduino-processing-dio-drugi</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
		
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